Venotonic Botanical Extracts in Modern Cosmetic Formulation

Centella asiatica, native to India and widely found across Asia, is a classic botanical in cosmetic science. It is valued for supporting skin comfort, the appearance of firmness, and a more toned, resilient-looking skin—especially in leg-care and tonicity-focused formulas.

Suggested use level: 0.1–0.5%. 

Centella asiatica is considered the gold standard venotonic botanical in cosmetic science. Its main active compounds, asiaticosides and madecassoside, are highly effective in:

- Strengthening vascular collagen.

- Supporting capillary resistance.

- Improving skin microcirculation.

- Tired legs.

- Skin prone to redness.

- Loss of firmness associated with vascular weakness.

CO₂ extraction preserves the full triterpenoid profile without solvent residues, making it ideal for high-end dermocosmetic applications.

Ruscus aculeatus, native to the Mediterranean area, is one of the best-known botanicals used in cosmetic products aimed at tired-looking legs and a toning / refreshing cosmetic effect.

Suggested use level: 0.1–0.3%

Ruscus aculeatus is one of the most effective vasoconstrictor botanicals used in cosmetics.

Its activity is linked to Ruscogenins, which:

- Reduce venous diameter.

- Improve venous tone.

- Significantly relieve the sensation of heavy, tired legs.

Because of its direct action on vascular tone, Ruscus is widely used in formulations aimed at chronic venous insufficiency–related discomfort, always within cosmetic claims.

Vitis vinifera, native to the Mediterranean area. Leaves and seeds are rich in OPC (oligomeric proanthocyanidins), powerful polyphenols with antioxidant, venotonic, and capillary-protective properties. Widely used in cosmetic formulations for skin comfort and microvascular support.

Suggested use level (CO₂ extract): 0.2–1%
Preferred extraction: CO₂ or cold-pressed (depending on ingredient type).

- Strong venotonic action

- Capillary-protective properties

- Anti-edema effect (reduces vascular permeability)

- Powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity

- Grape seed: 60–95% OPC. 

- Grape leaf: 5-15% OPC with highest potency and bioavailability. Ideal for structural vascular support. 

Lower OPC, but excellent draining and calming activity. Particularly effective for reducing heaviness and edema. 

For cosmetic formulations, combining seed and leaf extracts provides a balanced venotonic + draining effect.

Horse chestnut, native to Southeastern Europe, is a key venotonic plant, particularly valued for its seed extract rich in escin. In cosmetics, it is used to help reduce the sensation of heaviness, support vascular tone, and limit edema-related discomfort.

Horse chestnut is well known for its draining and anti-edema properties.

Its key active compound, Escin, helps to:

- Reduce vascular permeability.

- Improve microcirculatory comfort.

- Decrease swelling associated with poor venous return.

Why CO₂ extraction?
CO₂ extracts can help maintain a controlled profile while avoiding harsh solvents, aligning with premium cosmetic positioning.

Witch hazel, native to North America, is a classic cosmetic botanical recognized for its vascular astringent and soothing effects. It is commonly used in products targeting visible capillaries, redness-prone skin, and overall skin tonicity.

Hamamelis is a classic vascular astringent, particularly suitable for:

- Visible capillaries.

- Spider veins.

- Rosacea-prone skin.

It tightens superficial vessels and improves the appearance of fragile skin, making it ideal for both leg care and facial vascular formulations.

Ginkgo biloba, native to China is one of the oldest living tree species, valued for its circulation-enhancing and antioxidant properties. In cosmetic formulations, it helps support peripheral microcirculation and vascular protection, contributing to skin vitality.

Ginkgo biloba is valued for its ability to:

- Improve peripheral circulation

- Protect blood vessels from oxidative stress

- Support overall microvascular function

- As a powerful antioxidant, it complements structural venotonics by protecting the vascular endothelium.

Bidens pilosa native to Central & South America, Africa, tropical regions, is a powerful botanical known for its venoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. In cosmetics, it is used to support vascular comfort and skin balance, particularly in synergy with other venotonic extracts.

Bidens pilosa is an emerging venoprotective botanical with strong:

- Anti-inflammatory activity. 

- Vascular protective properties. 

It is particularly effective in formulas aimed at chronic inflammation-related vascular discomfort, and works exceptionally well in synergistic systems.

Isolated Plant-Derived Actives (Formulators’ Toolbox)

In addition to whole extracts, certain purified actives are often used to fine-tune the performance profile of cosmetic systems:

• Troxerutin

• Hesperidin

These are typically used to support an “appearance of comfort and tone” positioning and can be integrated depending on the intended formula type and regional compliance strategy.

Synergistic Venotonic Systems: Why Combinations Work Better

In practice, the most effective cosmetic results are achieved through synergy rather than relying on a single botanical. A high-performance approach often includes:

• 1 “structural/tonicity” botanical (e.g., Centella)

• 1 “leg-care comfort” botanical (e.g., Ruscus or Horse Chestnut)

• 1 “protective antioxidant” botanical (e.g., Grape polyphenols or Ginkgo)

• 1 “functional enhancer” to reinforce the sensory profile (e.g., Rosemary CO₂)

Complementary Active: Rosmarinus officinalis (Leaf & Flowers)

Rosmarinus officinalis is an aromatic Mediterranean plant widely used in cosmetic formulations for its stimulating, antioxidant, and protective properties. In skin care, rosemary extract helps support cutaneous microcirculation, protect the vascular endothelium, and provide local anti-inflammatory benefits, making it an excellent complementary active in products designed for tired legs and vascular comfort.

Rosemary CO₂ extract is not a primary venotonic, but an excellent functional enhancer. It:

- Stimulates cutaneous microcirculation.

- Protects the vascular endothelium.

- Acts as a strong local anti-inflammatory.

It does not replace core venotonics, but significantly enhances their performance and sensory effect.

Venotonic cosmetic formulations benefit greatly from:

- High-quality CO₂ extracts. 

- Correct dose ranges.

- Intelligent synergistic design.

When properly formulated, these botanical actives support skin comfort, microcirculation, and vascular appearance